Visit: Dave’s Games.

WorldWorksGames is running a very special and rare sale in anticipation of its groundbreaking new terrain system TerrainlinX. From August 27^th to the 31^st you can get your hands on any WorldWorksGames catalog product for 20% off! This is a terrific opportunity to experience the WorldWorksGames difference or increase your existing terrain collection. Please note: your special 20% off discount will not appear until you view your cart and or checkout.

TerrainlinX Launches Sept 1st!

On September 1st WorldWorksGames will be launching the first in a series of products for the fantasy city of Himmelveil. First conceived in 2004 and over 2 years in the making, our first two releases “Streets” & “Sewers” will cover city infrastructure but in a unique way that has never been achieved before in gaming terrain. Utilizing our upcoming TerrainlinX building system; streets, sewers and multi-leveled structures can all happily coexist on the same gaming table! Everything is on-the-fly modular and absolutely everything is accessible! Not only that but we’ve incorporated automated, consumer machine cutter compatibility to speed up your builds as never before!

On Christmas eve, 2006 our family ran headlong into dark waters. My sister’s 8 year old son Chase Ripper was rushed to the hospital and shortly thereafter diagnosed with ALL Leukemia. Chase is now undergoing a second round of treatment to fend off lingering cancer cells.

Coming to my families aid, the crew here at WorldWorksGames pulled together in order to create a terrain set dedicated to Chase Ripper and family. The proceeds of which will go directly into Chase’s trust fund, to help offset some of the costs associated with 24/7 care over a period of many months. Every little bit helps in this fight and we won’t stop diverting money from this set until the crisis is over. Once that happens we’ll feed remaining sums into another cancer charity.

My heart swells with pride knowing that I’m working with such genuine people. People willing to throw aside everything for a relative stranger in need. I would like to personally thank the following contributors who made this incredible gift possible:

* Scott Ried for creating the amazing textures within this set and bringing his knowledge of all things “skater” to the table.
* Matt Lyon for applying his geometric wizardry to the various elements.
* Alberto Silva for illustrating some deeply inspired standees and game elements (no one does better standees than Alberto).
* Bob Cooper for designing a fully functional minigame, creating instructions, promotional photos, keeping things on track/ cohesive with production and generally helping me in a time of chaos.
* And to the rest of the WWG crew who were supportive in every way they could be during this process.

Of course, gigantic thanks are in order to all of you who have purchased this modelset or spread the word about it. I am in your debt and my family can never amply thank you for your support.

Denny Unger 

Mayhem: Urban Grind

Mayhem: Urban Grind is a skate park, standees and mini-game all in one! Design the park of your dreams and furnish it with all the ramp and grind combos you can handle! Once constructed build up an army of skater dudes to inhabit the park and cause completely mayhem!

As mentioned, this release includes “Mayhem Skate”; a skate park themed multiplayer game which pits your skater against others in an exhibition style or racing format challenge! Includes a number of game variants to spice up the competition! Fun, fast and sweeeeet!
Mayhem: Urban Grind includes all of the following (All skate park terrain comes in both graffiti and “clean” versions) :
o Large Bank
o Large Quarter Pipe
o Small Ramps
o Spine Ramp
o Seating Style Stairs with Railing
o Funbox
o Grind Boxes
o Grind Rails
o Wood Picnic Table
o 5X Ground Tiles in gridless, 1” and 1.5” formats (Includes “LinX” templates)
o 4x – Rookie Skaters – (Red,Green,Blue, Yellow)
o 1x – Pro Skater – Motor Python
o 1x – Pro Skater – BMX Duelist
o 1x – Pro Skater – Tony Wolf
o 1x – Pro Skater – Rollergun
o 1x – Ace Skater – Joey Kia
o 1x – Ace Skater – The Garou Sound Machine
o 1x – Ace Skater – Cachito A. Romero
o 1x – Ace Skater – Chase
o 2x – Police
o 1x – M.C. – Bud Beatbox
o 1x – Spray Can Token
o 2x – Loudboxes
o 16x – Traffic Cones
o 1x – Crowd Standee
o 9x – Trick Tokens
o And as always, fully photographed instructions to take you through the build process.

"We know one of the draws to Combat Storm is the inexpensive price tag associated with wargaming using plastic army men, so we have decided to continue the trend and make the second building creation pack a free download as well."

The second Building Creation Pack contains papercraft templates for one new Middle Eastern building and four different garbage dumpsters.

The building creation pack can be downloaded directly at http://www.combatstorm.com/download.html.

Combat Storm is a 2-4 player miniature strategy wargame game that uses green and tan plastic army men as game pieces and a large playing area as the battlefield.

In Combat Storm, players custom-build their own squads of plastic army men, selecting from troops such as Riflemen, Support Infantrymen, Snipers, Special Forces Soldiers, Demolition Experts and Anti-Armor Experts. Each troop-type has its own unique characteristics, weapons and specialties, allowing for creative and tactical game-play. In addition, players can also deploy tanks and transports into battle to provide additional firepower and support.

The Combat Storm Rulebook is available through online ordering via the Combat Storm website: http://www.combatstorm.com.

Frontier Farmstead

Price: $5.00 USD
Scale: 1:60
Complexity: Intermediate

Frontier farmstead set. Includes dome habitats, greenhouses, utility sheds, water generators, water tanks, solar generators, wind turbines, and water towers, allowing you to build wind farms, water farms, solar farms, and more.

I’m a big fan of Ebbles Miniatures and Mel has certainly shown that his talents have no bounds.  The Frontier Farmstead is a brilliant set for any of your sci-fi wargames or roleplaying games.  In particular the popular Star Wars , HALO, or Starship Troopers .  Personally I’m going to kit bash these by scaling them down to 10mm size for Mech Warrior Age of Destruction.

The textures are some of the best Ebbles Miniatures has produced so far, very impressive.  The builds and designs are refreshing and imaginative.   The choice of colors will be easy on your ink cartridges.

If you enjoy this product you may be intrested to know that Ebbles Miniatures has also released

Hab Dome Variants

Field Camp

Cathedrae Noctis: HellWorks II

File Size = 30.3MB

$16.99 USD

As the grim tolling of bells peals out of the bellfry, snarling gargoyles and faceless statues seem to somehow acknowledge your arrival. Towering pillars cast long shadows in the dimly lit gloom of these towering halls. Somewhere a demonic choir sings a blasphemous hymnal as the rotting corpses of sinners and devils line the pews. Don’t lower your head! Don’t fall to your knees! And don’t bother praying… it won’t help you now. This is Cathedrae Noctis… where even angels fear to tread!

Cathedrae Noctis brings your darkest, gothic fantasies to life! With it’s optional wall types you could make towering structures that dwarf all other terrain on the table or make a simple shrine or chapel with equal ease! Even ruined buildings are no problem with the EZ-Kitbashing guide included! Colourful stained glass windows with monstrous themes add depth and atmosphere to your model and props galore provide both extra detail and vital in-game cover, ranging from simple candelabras to the very heart of darkness itself!

Cathedrae Noctis: HellWorks II includes the following:

• 6 Floor Variations in 1″ and 1.5″ Format
• 6″ and 3″ Removable Arched Pillars
• Flying Butresses and Exterior Abuttments
• Stairs in 1″ and 1.5″ Formats
• Candelabras and Chandeliers
• 4 Pews
• 2 Altars
• Bishop and Priest Thrones
• Baptismal Font
• Pulpit
• 4 Statues
• Big Freakin’ Evil Heart!
• 3″ and 6″ Sloped Roofs
• Spires (3″x3″ Area Coverage)
• Special Rear Roof
• Roof Spikes and Gargoyles
• Decorative Bellfries
• 3″ and 6″ Walls in Two Styles and Colours
• Massive 6″x6″ Walls in Two Styles and Colours
• Special Rear Wall in Two Styles and Colours
• Pentagrammic “Rose” Window in Two Styles and Colours
• Transparencies for All Windows Plus Variations

And as always, fully photographed, step-by-step instructions to guide you through the assembly process!

First off is to print out all of the pages.

After you print out the Mech Bay you will need to cut them out using a utility knife and a steel ruler (be extra careful) or by using a pair of scissors. Then edge them all in black to hide the white paper.

Page one and two is the main building. This would house the Mechwarriors and the Mech Mechanics

Page three is the center divider between bays

Page four needs to be printed twice. These will be the back and roof of the mech bays

Page five is the base of the stalls

Page six is the other end of the bays.

I did not make the fold lines that noticeable so if your having problems figuring out where to score the paper, use the the area where the tabs meet on the inside panel (page 4) to line up the fold marks.

After you have printed and cut out page 4 twice you need to glue them together

I have both of them in the picture. the part on the left has been glued together, the one on the right has not. Remember to score both sides before gluing them back to back. Mine has colour on the reverse side as I was using up a misprinted model from another game. Let dry before folding into an “L” shape.

The center wall that separates the two stalls is a simple box fold. Just remember to hold it gently in place until the glue has sufficiently dried.

While making a box fold I like to glue the longest side together first. Then fold the whole thing flat. This will make sure that the tabs are aligned properly. Then I will bring in the top then the bottom.

After you have done your three box folds start by placing the largest box, the living quarters. Place glue on the bottom and carefully align it to the base. You should mount the base on something solid like Mat Board, Pizza Box or foam core. Don’t worry if it seems to over lap. There is enough room for slight error.

Now its time to place the back wall/roof of the stall. Glue the tabs that will connect to the main building. The carefully line it up and hold it into position until the glue starts to dry.

Follow the last two steps for the next stall and the end piece.

There you have it. One two stall mech Bay! Use it in your bases, your scenarios or just for fun! I will be building another one that is slightly smaller and will be exactly B3 in size. When I first designed this I did not care for making them to the templates. The Vehicle bay is B3 size and is pretty much built the same way. I will include seperate instructions for the vehicle bay.

Print out the tiles that you require. You will notice a few extras on the page, some grass and a log with blue tabs on the side of it.

Using a metal straight edge and a razor (you can always use a scissors) cut out the tiles.

Now mount them on something stiff like mat board, or a pizza box. I prefer to use mat board myself. At this point you could just call it good and use them but where is the fun in that? Lets start with the submerged log.

Cut the log out then wrap it around a pen or marker to give the log it’s shape.

Now that is done. you can place the log anywhere but I think it looks best toward the edge.

Now for the grass or reeds.

Cut out the grass and fold it in half.

Now score (make a crease in the paper) about 1/4″ You will now want to cut the edge that is connected that way your 1/4″ crease will become 2 flaps or tabs.

Like the picture above (sorry about the blurry image). Glue the grass together except the tabs. Do not glue them together. When it is dry make verticle cuts in the grass to form individual blades. Then fan them apart a bit. Then place them on you “W” terrain.

Notice the top two pictures. The first one has been “edged” with a black marker (you could use dark green as well) and the second one has not. The white from the mat board really sticks out. Make sure you edge your models!

And there you go! You can also do this to the river tiles as well.

This was a difficult model to build. Not because of the number of pieces. Not because the size of the pieces. No this model is difficult because of the curves in this model. If your a beginner than I can’t stress enough how important it is to take your time. This is not a model to make quickly. You will be required to set it down and let it dry several times before it’s completion.

Step One: Printing and Cutting

Using card stock, either 150 lbs. weight (US & Canada) or 200 gsm everywhere else, print off all four pages of the pdf. Page one is the bottom of the model; page two is the top of the hill; page three are the sides of the hill; and page four are the interior supports. The interior supports will allow you to put heavier models on the hill without it collapsing. They will also strengthen your model allowing it to be used again and again! Get all of your pieces carefully cut out and set aside so they do not get damaged.

Step Two: Scoring and Edging

Taking a stylus or an empty ball point pen (I can’t stress the empty part enough) use a ruler to align the stylus over the fold lines and gently press down leaving a crease in the paper. This will allow you to fold the tabs and edges with ease and at the exact point where they are intended to fold. This is one little step that gives you a more professional look to your model!

Now take a permanent marker, sharpe, or water color marker and color in the tabs and exposed edges of every piece. This is called edging. I am currently using a Brown Water Color Marker, although green or black would work equally as well. Sharpe has a good line of colored permanent markers or go to a local art shop for some good pens. Edging will keep unsightly white lines from showing up to the casual eye.

Step Three: Forming and Gluing

Take the two hill side halves and glue them together as shown in the picture. Wait for the tabs to dry completely! Go work on another model, play a game, anything just leave it alone to dry. Then do the same for the other edge.

You may have to hold this tab in place for a little while so it can dry in the proper position.

Here is a good trick while letting it dry completely (just make sure no glue is outside of the tab as it will glue together like that). Take a clamp or clothes pin and pin the two tabs together. The tabs are the center of the B7 Hill.

Before gluing play around with the side of the hill and the top and see how they fit together. Get an idea of how the sides resist being formed and carefully bend them into position. Take some time to do this. You should be familiar with the pieces before gluing them together.

Now comes the hard and possibly frustrating part. Gluing. I personally started where the tabs are placed in the center where the model comes together in almost a figure 8.

As you can see from the picture I have only glued the center and then used something to clamp them together. You don’t have to use a clamp you can hold them together or use a tweezers (tweakers are your friend for paper models). make sure the sides of the hill and the top of the hill are flush. If they are not then the hill will be lopsided and will not turn out well at all. Take the extra time to make sure they are flush (flat) so they will be seamless when dry.

Now using the glue and your free hand start on the rounded ends of the hill. This will take some time as you want to make sure each tab adheres to the side piece and is flush and flat. Remember the sides are now going from being flat to making several different curved shapes and it will give you some resistance. Just be firm, don’t get aggressive with them. If you get frustrated finish the area you are working on, making sure it is secure, then take a break.

After all the tabs are dried I will place another bead of glue over the tabs then rub it in over the tabs with my finger making sure they are secure.

While drying if you can find a heavy object with about the same circumference of the hill you can use it to hold it down while you take a break.

Now despite all of my precautions I did get one edge that did not turn out flush. This is not a large problem. After the model is completely done I will take a sharp razor and carefully trim it off.

Step Four: Interior Supports

The Hardest part is over!

The interior supports are just a simple box fold. You can see I use a tweezers to hold the tabs while it drys (clamps won’t fit everywhere).

Now place them inside of the hill you have finished. I like to place them at the ends and position them to cover the best area. I then use a heavy object to hold them down and dry while I work on a different project.

Step Five: Bottom and Finished

The tabs from the hill go on the OUTSIDE of the bottom template. I did this for two reasons; Convenience and no one looks at the bottom of the hill during play. To glue the tabs on the inside would be a monstrous task and not worth it. Now as with every step take your time. Stretch the tabs so the rest of the sides forms to WizKids B7 Template.

When your done place a heavy object on it while it dries.

you can even place some tape over the tabs to protect them from ware and tear.

And thats it your done. Now the more you build the easier it becomes. The first one I built looked like a large piece of garbage and the second one (seen above) looks more like a hill. Now these hills can be used for any game system. I have a Mage Knight, Mechwarrior and a D&D Giant figure shown with the hill.

So enjoy

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